1900-1920 The beginning of modernity. lecture notes.

The beginning of Modernity.

"Belle Epoque c1880's to ww1 1914 (The beautiful era)

Madam x John Singer Seargent (Androgonous woman) Painting 
Beginning of the modern world 
December 1985  Ideal Edwardian Women (curvy, small waist, big hats)
Mythical women invented by Charles Garner Gibson (it girl)
Camille Clifford (Ideal Edwardian figure) 
Art Nouveau was influential and dress in edwardian period 
(Curvy sensual) art nouveau influence all graphic design at the time 
1902 November Vogue Cover
Josephine Baker 1927
Jean Harlow 
Edward Steichen (First fashion photo was taken with an auto-chrome method (Fortuni dress)

Liberty London style "tree of life" 1909
Gustar Klint 
"The kiss"

Leon Bakst was influential with hair and make-up 
Paul Pioret, George Lafer 1911 Denise "Lampshade dress"

First Vanity Fair Cover was an oriental theme.
Downtown Abbey covers 1900 period (edwardian theme moving towards modern style) (green,white,purple, suffragetes uniting colours)
Suffragetes (Votes for women)
Emily Parkhurst 
Emily Wilding Davison 

New Zeland gave women the right to vote first then, Australia then the UK.
1914 1st world war, changed everyone's lives, 10 million died.

George Lamber "The Aftermath of the war" Victory Bands 1919
Makeup/Hair/Fashion al changed in response to the war/history/art 
Women had roles in the war (All classes of women)
"Womens Land Army" poster 
war ended 11th Nov 1980

(Woman who walked around Venice with a Leopard)

Dida Vara (Cleopatra)

Mary Pickford (Americas sweetheart, beginning of cinema)

Vogue 1980 Front Cover (American Vogue) weren't very concerned about the war, heavily influenced by the taste of 'exotic'.

July 1919, Turbans were popular makeup was standard wear for women 
July 1918 UK patriotic Vogue Cover/Message 
May 1980 Vogue Cover, People feel no escape from the war

Jan 15 1915 Vogue Cover 
Baron Demier
Vogue Cover 1920's 

Fashion and beauty concepts, where do they come from? lecture notes

1900- 2016 (history of fashion and beauty)
Focus on theoretical and aesthetic aspects of fashion and beauty imagery.
ideas and inspiration comes from many different sources, e.g. music, photography, films, fashion, art, style icons, (must understand context in which they appear, etc sociological, artistic, economic, aesthetic, political)

Look up and research 'girl with the pearl earring" portrait 
fashion through history/ time one of the most copied paintings in beauty. 
Art is a good source of inspiration for beauty imagery. 

Art and architecture 
paintings are a good source of inspiration for beauty 
new beauty imagery and trends in beginning of 19th century was seen as rebellious and radical, pre raphaelite ideal of beauty

Imagery 
(Mert and marcus modern aphelia look up images from slide show women portrait painted in a bath)
peter phillips for chanel make-up inspo.
casarte/popular italian artist 
steven clein, photograph
karl lagerfeild
art deco/paris metro art nouveau - all started in Paris found in architecture and fashion modern culture and art. Chrysler building 1928-30

Modern flapper girl (art deco architecture) gucci 2012
extreme photographer lucinda grange 
sam rolenson (art deco dress photographer, how to spend it magazine)
Silver screen/silent movies "stars of the silver screen " 1929
Black lips, turban, smokey eye, dark brows

Imagery keeps reappearing throughout history/fashion 70's was a revival of 30's make-up "Biba"
80's Isabella Rosaline (use of pink in the time period)
American Vogue Mario testino,Emma Watson great gatsby theme 
lucinda chambers stylist 
40-50's Veronica Lake hair over one eye 
Lara Stone 'sweater girl'

Diana greeland 1942
Sarah Jessica Parker Harpers Bazaar January 1950's vogue cover
Rankins version
Solve Sundsbo 
Richard Avedon 1954 obsessed with french fashion 
Sonnie Harnet platinum blonde look was the ideal classic beauty

60's film star, Sussie Parker 
Jean Shrimpton 60's David Bailey
Swinging 60's It girl 
Twiggys 60's (ID Magazine remake)
Peggy moch 60's as modern space age. (Ruddy Ginerian)
Val Garden Make-up artist 
Kate Moss 2011 David Bowie Vogue /Boy George
Vogue 1884 New Rave collection 
Alex Box and Rankin Collab 
Sophia Loren 
Elizabeth Taylor 
Gwen Stefani (Vogue)
Elvis and prascilla presley, lana del ray 
(watch breakfast at tiffanies) 
Richard Avedon - Audrey Hepburn